Etosha National Park

In the open plains of the Kalahari Desert, species have adapted to the extremely dry climate and thrive.  Among the drought-tolerant thorny acacia trees and sages, insects gather the smallest droplets of dew, animals find a way to eat cacti, and the San Bushmen tribe survive on water from melons alone.  We went for a walk with some of those who survive in the desert, and they showed us the plants they use for medicine, the insects they eat, how they dust their skin to protect it from the sun, and how they can still hunt with the element of surprise in the short grasses. 

A tasty snack that can be saved for later by taking the legs off

Another border crossing, and now into Namibia.  This ended up being my favourite country on this trip because of the sheer diversity - from deserts and dunes, to various geological formations, to Etosha National Park in the north.

We started out in the capital city, Windhoek, which had distinctly southern California vibes.  The country was once a German colony, and the influence is very pronounced, with most signage bilingual and a very different architecture than the countries we left behind.  Onward to Etosha, and our final game drive.

Even just on the drive to the camp site, we saw lions.  A young couple, the male collared, reposed under the sparse trees, and later got up to wander to the watering hole and make a giraffe very nervous.  

At the edge of our campsite for the next two nights, there was a large watering hole frequented by thirsty visitors of all levels of the food chain.  There was a stone wall enclosing our view point and soft lights that would give some night vision without bothering the wildlife.  On our first visit, there was a beautiful male lion posed right across the water, staring at us.  Other animals remained at the fringes of his view and only started approaching when he'd had his fill.  It was a stunning place to watch the sunset and see the dynamics of the watering hole.  As soon as a bull elephant came into the vicinity, everyone else cleared out.  Once he'd showered and drank, the brave zebras started inching back.  The giraffes were the most skiddish and would take a few paces every couple of minutes and retreat if it felt anyone look its way.

Late that evening, we returned to see who braved the dark, and it was rhinos  I had watched a documentary about rhinos just before coming to Africa that explained how this animal becomes a different creature by night.  By day they are solitary and aggressive, whereas they seem to use the nighttime to socialize.  On the first night, a total of eleven rhinos stopped by, mostly moms with their young.  It was completely silent, save the splashing and slow, laborious movements of these huge animals.  It was surprising to see so many black rhinos, as they are very endangered, and Wilson told us how strange it is for him to see them living freely.  In Kenya, if you are on a reserve and see a black rhino, you see a park ranger with a rifle not too far behind, ready to defend.  They know where each rhino is 24/7.  I'm not sure why exactly they seem to be less at risk of poaching in Etosha, but it was exciting to see them moving around the watering hole freely.

The next morning, we clamboured back into the trucks for a game drive through the desert park.  I couldn't believe how diverse this area still is despite receiving so little water.  

Within the park, there is a vast seasonal lake that was bone dry as far as the eye could see.  It was a dusty salt pan, and we had fun playing with perceptions.  The salt pan, when watered, is full of flamingos, but that day we were the only ones in sight.

Hannah and I

Photo: Jana Kirk

Photo: Jana Kirk

The whole gang in the middle of nowhere. Photo: Shay Dodds

I had been waiting to see awkward giraffes drinking water, and I was finally delighted as we left Etosha and came across a group of five nervous friends taking turns dipping down for a quick drink before popping back up and scanning from side to side.  Another one came down to the watering hole that night as well as we were treated to another glorious sunset.

Up next: walks in the desert, dancing with Damara, and jumping out of planes.

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