Empires and Olives

Day three dawned sunny in Moulay Idriss, and breakfast was a crispy crepe with apricot preserve and pulpy tangerine juice (I just looked it up: the word tangerine comes from Tangier, a region in Morocco). The taxis were loaded, and we embarked for the ancient Roman city Volubilis.

The Roman Empire extended into this region of Morocco throughout the first and second centuries, long before Arabs brought Islam to the country. Together, Arabs and Berber invaded Spain in the eighth century, and were kicked out in the thirteenth, bringing Moorish and Spanish architecture to Morocco. This was all long before the French colonized the region, leaving its language and architecture after independence in 1956.

But today in 2017, we stood in the dining rooms of Roman ruins. An earthquake destroyed the abandoned city in the 1700s, with excavations beginning early in the 1900s. Walls, columns, and mosaics were restored, and house layouts took form. 

Wealthy houses had intricately tiled mosaic floors depicting mythological scenes, such as nymphs and Pegasus, and the triumphs of Hercules. 

 The city had a water system collecting rain from the mountains funneled through lead pipes, with fountains, a bathhouse, and latrines. There was a forum and market place, a grand archway, and a temple for Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva.

From Volubilis, we drove back to Meknes and visited the medina. The market stalls were filled with mouthwatering olives, the sweetest dates, fresh strawberries, and baskets of spices.

A spice mixture for tagine, the owner was happy to describe to me in French, purely without salt

Dates were prices by quality, with the most expensive stuffed with nuts and sweet as candy

Our final stop was at a tiny restaurant, about the size of a double bed, where the seven of us crowded around the table for mint tea and camel burgers. The vegetarian option was divine, with scrambled egg, lentils, eggplant, carrots, and the pepperonata, served with our coveted bread. The others loved the camel and the unique blend of spices.

We left Meknes by train and are now in Fes for a few days. This former capital city (prior to being relocated to Rabat by the French) is beautiful and grand, with a massive royal palace. It is known for its artistry, and is home to the world's oldest still-operating university, founded in 859 AD by Fatima al-Fihri. More to learn tomorrow, as we explore beyond the walls.

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