Su navi per mari
It was the last day and depression clouded my thoughts, but I put in my best efforts to push it away and savour every last minute of my time on the islands. We had a beach walk first thing on the white sandy shores of Bachas Point back on Santa Cruz, the name jumbled through a game of Telephone inspired by the barges run aground here in the construction of the airport on nearby Baltra Island. The turquoise water was clear and cool against the soft pale sand and blue sky, with metallic ruins emerging along the waterline. Paths travelled from the shore, leading to two lagoons dotted with flamingos, passing lots of cacti and crabs. We took another fun panoramic shot along the beach, knowing I’d miss this great group of adventurers!
 |
| Photo: Sandie Young |
We had an earlier lunch as we sailed to the next spot and I moped about the rooftop balcony in paradise feeling sorry for myself. But eventually it was time for our last snorkel. The water was rough and Omar got us started pretty far from shore for the thrill of riding the fast current with hardly any control, bumping into everyone and fighting to advance sideways. Closer to shore, the current broke and it was calmer, with great schools of colourful fish swimming by, and at the bottom, four sleeping nurse sharks. I savoured the liberating feeling of twirling and frolicking in the water like the sea lions as they zipped by.
Our last excursion was to see the Frigatebird colony on North Seymour Island. This was the opportunity to spot males with their inflated red pouches through the largest colony in the Galápagos Islands! The landscape was fascinating with large red volcanic rock and dead-looking Palo Santo trees surrounded by Magnificent and Great Frigatebirds nesting or seeking mates. Omar showed us the differences between the two species, explaining that Great Frigatebirds are redder in their eye rings or rusty plumage in juveniles, and adult males have greenish backs. Magnificent Frigatebirds have more purple in their black plumage. Several males were waiting about with their inflated chests, seemingly no room left for their beaks, which they clicked up at the sky to attract female attention.
There were plenty of lava lizards, sea lions and pups, and even land iguanas, who, not native to this island, had been moved from Baltra Island in the 1930s and who have managed quite successfully. There was one particular juvenile Frigatebird who was very curious when we arrived and swooped in with its impressive wingspan to prod at our hats and hair. As we returned to the dinghy, it tried to make friends with Sabine, a sincere ornithophobe, and minor chaos ensued. Luckily Omar managed to wrest the walking stick away from her and get her on the dinghy no worse for wear - her or the bird.
 |
| The curious Frigatebird. Photo: Sandie Young |
Back on board, Manuel had snacks for us, bless him. We watched the last Galápagos sunset, reflecting on an incomparable week. We saw more than I ever could have imagined and circumnavigated a large portion of the islands. The volcanic landscapes are forever imprinted in my mind, filled with diving boobies, basking marine iguanas, and barking sea lions. I would jump at a chance to come back. On this trip, not only did I get to enjoy the other-worldly scenery and unique endemic wildlife, but a life of luxury on board the brand-new Reina Silvia Voyager with a first-class room all to myself, delicious meals, an amazing crew, and wonderful travel companions. Together we explored this remote wonderland, crossed the equator, and made Shellbacks of the rest of us.
The last morning, Omar set us off crying (ok maybe just me) with Time to Say Goodbye over the speaker. The crew was preparing for the next tour, with refuelling, getting all the groceries, and cleaning top to bottom. I watched the activity and the last sunrise from the beloved top deck before our final sombre breakfast. Far too soon, we said our goodbyes to the crew and hopped in for one final dinghy ride to Baltra Island. The bus took us to the airport and I hated it. Grateful for great company and crosswords in the long wait for our flight, I watched the Galápagos Finches flitting through the airport with final thoughts of Darwin. Eventually, we walked back the way we came a mere week ago along the tarmac, spotting the last lava lizard and iguana, and feeling completely changed. I said my silent goodbyes to the islands as we took off for Quito, and promised to return some day.
 |
| Thanks to Omar for an amazing trip and always having an eye out for us! |
Comments
Post a Comment