Up the river with a Jungle Gin

Arriving to our jungle lodge in Rio Dulce by boat, the first priority destination for me was the pool surrounded by palm trees and flitting birds, where a "Jungle Gin and Tonic" was delivered. And here I spent most of my time, birding poolside and strolling along the boardwalks to all the cabins.

Rio Dulce meets the Caribbean Sea at Livingston, and we took a bright blue boat out for a fast, spine-rattling ride through the vast river in that direction. We paused first at an old Spanish castle that was raised by pirates, and is now preserved as a local park.

We passed under the second longest bridge in Central America, which graciously replaced the old ferry system.

Along the way, we slowed down and meandered through mangroves standing tall in the water, spotting birds, reptiles, and interesting plants.

The forest opened up into a silent mirror lake and we sat quiet soaking it in. We circled a cormorant and heron colony, watching the nervous birds watching us.

The destination was Livingston, a Garifuna community, where African and Indigenous descendants have developed a unique culture. Here, the river meets the Caribbean, and I waded in for the first time ever to this bathtub-warm water. This area feels totally different from the rest of Guatemala, where rum and coconuts rule.

The boat ride back was much smoother, passing infinite pelicans, going through the white limestone canyon, seeing the communities that live so remotely here among the cliffs and mangroves.

After this, it was a drive to Flores, a tiny island walkable entirely in 20 minutes. The island is out in the lake with a bridge connecting it to the mainland. It was one of the last Maya sites conquered, and was found to be a cemetery. These days, the beautiful little town is a perfect launching spot to visit Tikal.

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