The Crystal Maiden

In Actun Tunichil Muknal cave, cameras are no longer allowed. Not since someone dropped one on a thousand year old skull and shattered it. For visuals, check out this video from the tour operator, and also this National Geographic page.


This world renown cave system is a stunning in situ museum of Mayan artifacts and human sacrifices, buried in the calcified cave floor from centuries of changing water levels.

To get there, one must hike in and wade into the river right away, swimming past three crossings and walking a few kilometers to the cave's mouth. The opening is surrounded by thick green vegetation, and the yawning abyss beckons. Climbing back down into the water, you swim inside.

We navigated through the flowing river and strategically manoeuvred through tight spaces, such as one spot where you have to swim carefully, buffeting your weight and sliding your head carefully through by the narrow of your neck.

The only 500 meters from the cave's entrance to the inner cathedral took maybe an hour of careful navigation. Then there was an ascent with strategic foot placement, before taking off our shoes and entering the heritage site.

Fixed to the cave floor are clay pots that had been filled with food offerings for the gods. It was believed that Xibalba, the Underworld, was accessed through caves, and this is where the gods live. When things got more desperate for the Maya, they ventured, terrified and on mushrooms, further into the cave to plead with and make human sacrifices to Chaac, the rain god. These sacrifices were upper class, evidenced by their skull and teeth modifications. They would have believed that a sacrifice was an honourable death allowing them to skip the nine levels of underworld and proceed straight to the upper world.

Archaeologists have found 14 bodies here, mostly young, but there are likely more washed away or buried with changing water levels. All the pots are broken or chipped in some way to release the bad energy. There is evidence of fires, ceremonies, and drug-induced rituals. It is impressively deep into the cave system that they found the "cathedral". Behind here is the famous Crystal Maiden, whose incredibly preserved skeleton has calcified and sparkles with minerals. She was 20 years old and 5'4". Sacrifices had blunt force trauma or slow torture, guaranteeing their quick progression to the upper world.

Caving itself was ecstatic joy, with wading through water and scrambling through tight spaces, yipping with the thrill of it. Some sections were easier thanks to the water helping you angle sideways with ease. Not for the claustrophobic, but a memorable underground adventure!


Note from January 2023: I never did finish writing about this beautiful trip to Central America. I returned home in early March 2020 and another matter quickly took over for all of us. At the time writing did not provide its usual solace but perhaps in a spur of wanderlust soon I can revisit my journals and write about highlights of Caye Caulker, including Rum Punch boat trips, exceptional snorkeling along the Belize Barrier Reef, and a minor manatee panic attack.

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